LADAKH IS SOMETIMES called ‘Little Tibet’. It has a similar landscape and culture that bears this comparison. The Ladakh range starts from the Indus-Shyok confluence and the Zanskar range is the dividing line between the Indus and Zanskar valleys. The Great Himalayan range in its S demarcates Ladakh from the Kashmir Valley and Himachal Pradesh. Two main districts comprise Ladakh: Leh and Kargil. Leh can be subdivided into Indus Valley, Nubra Valley, Shyok Valley and Markha Valley. The main rivers are Indus, Zansker and Shyok; like the mountain ranges these rivers run roughly E to W.

Ladakh is the most remote region of India, a barren, virtually rainless area which lies north of the Himalayas, and area known geographically as the Tibetan plateau. The Himalayas serve as a barrier to clouds carrying rain from the south, virtually none of it gets across to fall on Ladakh. Which, in consequence, has only a few cm of rain per year. As little as the Sahara. The result is the ‘ moonland’ label- much of Ladakh looks much like the moon, a barren, grey-brown landscape utterly devoid of vegetation. Only where rivers, running from far- away glaciers or melting snow, carry water to habitation do you find plant life.

Ladakh really is a ‘ Little Tibet’. Although Tibet is politically part of China today, Ladakh like parts of Nepal, is situated on the Tibetan plateau.

The people of Ladakh are related to the Tibetans and follow similar cultural and religious practices. Ladakh also has many Tibetan refugees who fled Tibet with the invasion from China. Ladakh today is probably for more Tibetan than Tibet itself, where the Tibetan culture has, no doubt, been considerable changed by the Chinese.

Today Ladakh is open to outsiders, or at least as open as its geography permits. No special permission is needed to enter Ladakh and within the region you can travel around with relative freedom. Ladakh is full of amazing sights- strange gompas perched on soaring hilltops, dwarfed by snowcapped mountain; the barren, shattered looking landscapes aplashed with small but brilliant patches of green; ancient palaces clinging to sheer rock walls. But most of all it is notable for its delightful people- friendly as only Tibetans can be and immensely colourful. It’s an amazing place.

Ladakh today is one of the most remarkable adventure travel destinations and its can be divided into three main areas for trekking: Zansker, with Padam as its central point; the area around Leh; and the Nubra/Shyok Valleys of the Eastern Karakoram. Most trails that commence from adjoining Himachal Pradesh, especially from Manali, converge by different routes at Padam. Then Leh is approached by different routes form Padam.

PEOPLE-
The Ladakhis are Tibetan- Mongoloid in appearance- a healthy looking people, deep brown in colouring due to the strong summer sun. Men traditionally wear a long woolen robe tied at the waist while women wear a similar robe but on their backs they add a clourful shawl- in which a baby or parcels can easily be carried. The women wear their hair in two long pigtails, a style also followed by some men. They top the picturesque ensemble with a top hat, which somehow remains firmly balanced, perched on top of their heads. Although many men are abandoning their traditional dress for western clothing, the women still predominantly wear their colourful local dress. Many Ladakhis are nomads, herding their goats, noted for their fine Pashima wool, to high altitudes during the summer. Men carry the small essential of Ladakhi life( flints, cap, tea cup etc) either in their robe or hanging from their belt.

RELIGION-
Although the Islamic influence extends out of the Kashmir Valley as far as Kargil in Ladakh, the predominant religion is overwhelmingly the Tibetan, Lamaist from of Buddhism. As the Kashmiris look towards mecca, so do the Ladakhis look towards Lhasa and although it may be in correct to refer to Ladakh as ‘ Little Tibet’ there is much evidence of Tibetan influence. This Lamaist influence extends to the use of Tibetan scrip for the holy books of Kandshur and the clear Tibetan architectural influence, particularly evident in the design of the Leh palace which bears so may similarities to the larger Potala in Lhasa. Lamaism is a form of Buddhism heavily influenced by the pre Buddhist Bon religion, of Tibet. This especially noticeable on the stones and banners which carry pictures and carvings of Bon demons and gods. At the pinnacle of the Lamaist pantheon is the divine trinity of Avalokitesvara, Manyushri and Vayrapani but there are an extraordinary number of other gods and demons. Their pictures totally cover the walls of many gompas and to further complicate maters there can be unique incarnations only recognized in certain gompas!

Lamaism is the monastic side of the religion, the study of which requires long hours of meditation by the monks. This essential basis of Lamaist Buddhism contrasts with the visible rituals which most Ladakhis observe, such as pilgrimages to gompas, chortens, mani-walls, and holy tombs, or turning prayer wheels and chanting mantras. The observance of their religion is an everyday occurrence in the life of the people of Ladakh.

Lamaism probably came to Ladakh around the 10th century. It has been the religion of Tibet since 632 AD under the reign of King Srong-btsan-sgam-po but had additions made to it under the influence of the the red- caps and the yellow caps. The yellow cap( or Gelugpa sect) are a reformed sect who follow the Dalai Lama as a reincarnation of the Boddhisattva Avalokitsevara.
In Leh it is possible to find families whose members are Moslems, Christains and Buddhists since the Ladakhis are notably tolerant of other beliefs. As a rule, however where there are different religious groups in the same area( as between Kargil and Shergol on the Srinagar- Leh road) they live quite separately from one another and retain their own individuality.

BACKGROUND AND HISTORY-
During the 9th century, the great grandson of the King of Tibet fled the country with 100 soldiers, he came to Ladakh, married the daughter of its ruler, and later his sons ruled different parts of the Ladakh Kingdom. During the 11th century King Utpala of Ladakh extended his Kingdom to Zanskar and Mustang and also established several monasteries. During the 15th and 16th centuries a Muslim ruler from Baltistan invaded Ladakh. 100 years later the ruler of Ladakh sighed a treaty with the Mughal rulers of Kashmir, and with their help repelled the attack launched by the chief of Baltistan. During and after the time Ladakh paid nominal allegiance to Kashmir and retained cultural, commercial and religious ties with Tibet. In 1834, the region was invaded by the Sikh army led by Zorawar Singh and Ladakh came under the direct rule of Kashmir; because of its geographical barriers the region remained secluded and separated, culturally and economically, from neighbouring Kashmir. After 1962, the highway linking Srinagar with Leh was constructed and the real cultural and economic invasion began- first when a large garrison was established near Leh, and later, in 1974, when the area was declared open to tourism.

MONASTERIES AND GOMPAS-
In ladakh these have always been the center of religious, social, economic and even political functions. They are a living institution, especially because of their ecological position in a country where the barren mountainous character of the landscape forces the economy to function on a collective basis. Most of the gompas lie on major ancient trading routes extending from Tibet to Ladakh, among them Hemis, Thiksay, Alchi, Lamayuru, Ringdom, Karsha etc. Almost all the gompas follow a code of architecture. The interior is divided into several halls of which Du- Khang, the main prayer hall, is more spacious. A Gompa also has dwelling cells, library and a large courtyard where dances and other ceremonies are performed.